Warm and inviting:the dining room at Sepia.Kate Geraghty18.5/20
Contemporary$$$
There’s nothing faded about Sepia. The flash of flavours may seem unlikely at first against the smart but sombre timbers and toned-down interiors. But playful (and expert) flirting with dimension,texture and palettes is what chef Martin Benn is about – highly contemporary,Japanese influenced,original. Three ways with sushi nigiri comes matched with three just-asexquisite savoury jellies;wagyu beef with chestnut mushroom cream is served with a crunchy pile of konbu comb and fried potato – a combo that tastes deliciously like miniature salt-and-vinegar chips. An unusual four-part harmony of tapioca crisp,kuzu,goat’s cheese and sake makes for one of many tastebud-dazzling vegetarian dishes. The extraordinary wine knowledge of sommelier Rodney Setter is unmissable,as are desserts such as yuzu and white-chocolate icecream with its bouquet-catch of violet and rose flavours.
Wine:Impressive around-the-world trip of vineyards,with stops in unexpected places (such as China and Japan);26 by the glass
And…look out for tea degustation events.