St Isidore

The menu unequivocally declares its intent.'We use and support happy farmers,happy free-ranging animals&produce grown with a little bit o'love'. Not that you need reminding,as you walk through flower-filled gardens into the simply furnished,quirkily detailed dining room,past tables strewn with produce. Chef Alex Delly runs a serenely creative (occasionally slow) kitchen,aided by courteous,friendly waiters. An entree of garden tomatoes is a picture of summer,with a goat's curd-filled zucchini flower and cubes of barely pickled watermelon;while slow-cooked Junee lamb shoulder is almost spoonably soft,served with quinoa tabbouleh enlivened by shards of eggplant and haloumi. Crisp-skinned Tasmanian salmon is paired with ribbons of cucumber,wood ear mushrooms and turnip,a hint of miso adding extra umami to the mix. And while some dishes - sweet and savoury - could use a little more intensity,a satiny chocolate delice with fig and honey ice-cream packs a heady punch.