The Cut is a blokey,businessy affair,particularly at lunchtime. That's reflected in the decor of meat-cleaver door handles and butcher's block tables,all in a dark sandstone cellar with exposed beams that signals its heritage location in The Rocks. A starter of steak tartare means business,too - uniform pearls of soft flesh teamed with a tangy mix of capers,herbs,cornichons and red onion,topped with a petite quail's egg and man-sized crispbread shards. Also good is a mini smorgasbord of roast quail,smoked eel,duck,celeriac and goat's cheese. But a steakhouse is about the meat,and a visually mouth-watering T-bone was disappointing,being a little too resistant to the knife. Better is pan-fried snapper with pancetta,asparagus and fennel salad,with plenty of gutsy,up-front flavour. A dessert of lemon curd brulee,lemon poppy seed ice-cream,brown butter,fennel and passionfruit seems almost too dainty for such a macho feast but delivers plenty of delicate contrasts.