For locals in the know,or others with good navigational skills,The Union's a no-brainer. Who wouldn't want a neighbourhood haunt like this upstairs hideaway - bolstered by the cooking talent of Ross Dobson and Jane Jeffrey. Their rustic blackboard tapas menu offers the likes of crunchy,golden polenta chips with a bitey jalapeno mayo,juicy skewered hunks of grilled chicken with a garlicky cream,or a pile of just-right mussels,swaddled in a fresh tomato and spicy chorizo sauce with pearl couscous. Two sittings mean that the amenable,efficient staff move at a cracking pace through the tightly packed tables. But,strangely,you don't feel rushed or pressured;instead,the atmosphere hums with happy,chatty,eating people - from young'uns to oldies - enjoying punchy,well-cooked,locally sourced fare in a comfortable,cheerfully makeshift-looking space. It's like a pop-up that isn't - with a sense of spontaneity tempered with enough culinary gravitas to guarantee the long haul.