Emma Woods is the sort of chef/cafe owner every suburb needs. With time at Rockpool,Billy Kwong and Rick Stein's Padstowe joint under her belt,she's now chalking up (literally - the blackboard menu fills one wall) big-flavoured,amply proportioned crowd-pleasers to locals who lunch. Bag a banquette or perch in the courtyard out back to tackle teetering burgers on Infinity bread,finely-tuned pastas,quirky desserts - croissant and marshmallow pudding anyone? - and excellent Stazione coffee. The $30 budget won't quite cover Saturday dinners,when Woods ramps it up with a sophisticated,seasonally focused menu,but why not splurge a little?