Some things don't change. But why should they when they have worked so well for 17 years? The space is small and simple,with a few local paintings adorning the red walls,but the focus is on veteran chef Phillip Searle and'that wood-fired oven'. The menu is short and the wine list even shorter,and the long-serving duckling sausage,thinly sliced and served with pickled beetroot,remains the hot favourite among regulars. A salad of three tofus cleverly pairs seared tofu,smoked eggplant and Asian-style ginger,shallot and sesame dressing. Asian flavours permeate mains,too. Sweet glazed pork is countered by piquant green papaya salad,while braised beef oyster blade is scattered with kaffir lime leaf,lifting its rich sauce. Both are well cooked,but some bolder spicing wouldn't have gone astray. Thankfully,the richness and tang of the signature pineapple,licorice and star anise ice-cream,painstakingly crafted into a chequerboard,brings tastebuds back to attention.