Double Happy.
11.5/20

Dead flies in the soy sauce:Our critic’s verdict of George Calombaris’ Chinese restaurant

Callan Boys digs the cosplay dining room,but wonders if diners should spend their money at a theme-park tribute or a family-run original.

  • Callan Boys
Ricotta gnocchi and other assorted dishes.

Cheri

A European-style patisserie and cafe serving everything from pastries to pizza.

  • Tomas Telegramma
Dishes include Hopkins River sirloin,and roast pumpkin with green mole.

Alma

Elevated South American share-style dishes on Ryrie Street.

  • Gail Thomas
Chulho’s steamed Nepalese momos.

Chulho

  • David Matthews
Steak is available in three cuts.

Batesford Hotel

A revived pub with an epic beer garden just outside Geelong.

  • Gail Thomas
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The daily fish market selection.

Tombo Den

A high-octane ode to Tokyo’s late-night dining scene,by Chris Lucas.

  • Tomas Telegramma
Billy Wong.
14/20

If little of the original Golden Century remains,is it still Golden Century? The verdict

For devotees of the Cantonese icon,the reborn GC might feel like your parents have moved from your childhood home into flash new digs. But you’ll be hard-pressed to find yum cha with a better view.

  • Myffy Rigby
At Grana,shoppers can sit down for snacks such as baked brie.

Grana

Lygon Street deli and wine bar by the team behind Tipo 00.

  • Emma Breheny
Bar Brillo

This cosy neighbourhood wine bar in an underrated inner suburb is worth seeking out

Bar Brillo is a welcome addition to this small,hilly pocket northwest of the city,serving natural wines and Italian-leaning small plates.

  • Dani Valent
Sisig at Mrs Parks Kitchen.

Mrs Parks Kitchen

Contemporary Filipino cuisine in Melbourne’s west.

  • Cheyenne Bardos