The daily fish market selection.

Tombo Den

A high-octane ode to Tokyo’s late-night dining scene,by Chris Lucas.

  • Tomas Telegramma
Chef Stella Roditis.
14.5/20

It’s not all over Insta (yet),but this unpretentious city diner deserves your immediate attention

The small team at Clarence and V is all about minimum fuss and maximum flavour,says our critic.

  • David Matthews
Eleven Barrack is banking on the market for plush dining rooms.
Good Food hatGood Food hat16.5/20

This new two-hatted grill is so good,our critic booked it for his birthday

Eleven Barrack pushes beyond the usual surf-and-turf trappings to create a singular restaurant,complete with a baby grand and live pianist.

  • Callan Boys
Beef cheek,mozzarella,pesto and napoli dip sandwich.

Greta

Euro-inspired wine-diner serving lunch baguettes and pasta specials.

  • Tomas Telegramma andMichael Harry
Serving a wine-friendly,share-style Indian menu.

The Cellar Kitchen at Avani Wines

Where wine-friendly,share-style Indian dishes shine.

  • Tomas Telegramma
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Venison tartlet.
Good Food hat15/20

This freshly hatted restaurant is exciting and delicious,but there’s one missing ingredient

This opening from last spring is flying way under the radar. And we’re the ones losing out.

  • Besha Rodell
Barragunda’s dining room.

Barragunda Dining

One of Australia’s most ambitious farm-to-table experiences.

  • Emma Breheny
Marmelo at Melbourne Place.
Good Food hat15/20

Avoiding what’s obvious and popular,this hotel restaurant feels properly new

Focused on the food of Portugal,Marmelo is one of the more exciting restaurants to open in recent memory.

  • Besha Rodell
Kidman dry-aged sirloin on the bone,with coal-roasted greens,fried onion and black garlic.
Good Food hatGood Food hat16.5/20

Does Sydney need another luxury grill restaurant? No,but this one dazzles

The Grill isn’t for everyone,it’s expensive and grand,but it’s the kind of ambitious opening that makes big cities feel international.

  • David Matthews
Big,and brash,and fun:The ground floor of Maison Batard.
14.5/20

‘Eye-wateringly expensive’:Does Maison Batard stand up to its prices and hype?

Chris Lucas’ ambitious four-level venue is Melbourne’s “opening of the season”. Here’s our critic’s verdict.

  • Besha Rodell