Whiting parma (top left) and campanelle pasta carbonara with house-cured kingfish collar (centre).
14/20

Bet you’ve never had a parma or a carbonara like these before,Sydney

What was fine-diner The Gantry at Pier One Sydney Harbour hotel is now a simpler affair,but the comfort food has more to it than you might expect.

  • Terry Durack
Lucia’s coffee,bourbon and chocolate dessert.
Good Food hat15.5/20

Rediscover an endangered brand of old-school fine dining at this polished newcomer

Searching for somewhere quiet,spacious and with excellent food? New arrival Lucia ticks all the boxes.

  • Besha Rodell
Lemon tiramisu at Nico in Cammeray.
14.5/20

This neighbourhood Italian adds a dash of lemony sunshine to winter (and tiramisu)

With its Amalfi-inspired aperitivi,focaccia and pasta,Nico is a mood-lifting place to hibernate.

  • Terry Durack
Donovans in St Kilda.
Good Food hat15/20

Birthdays,parties,anything:This beloved bayside restaurant is the definition of dependable

Dismiss Donovans as outdated at your peril. The classic food and charming service make it ideal for young and old.

  • Besha Rodell
Little Joe 350g scotch fillet at Compa in Canberra.
14.5/20

Why Matt Moran’s new Italian steakhouse is the talk of the town

Compa is making ripples in Canberra,with a big-name chef,charming room and a smart menu that showcases seven different steaks.

  • Terry Durack
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14.5/20

House wines,hand-made pasta and inner-city vibes flow at this buzzy suburban Italian spot

Popular new restaurant Fior brings Surry Hills smarts and Totti’s-style antipasti to the Shire.

  • Terry Durack
If you drink and ride,you’re at Moon Dog Wild West.

Fans of fast food,shots and bucking bulls,this problem-plagued Footscray brewpub is for you

To say it’s had its challenges would be an understatement. But this salty slice of Americana delivers on the good times,most of the time.

  • Besha Rodell
Ali Gibson Roy behind the bar.

Stonkingly good bar food and Euro aesthetic set this stylish inner west spot apart

Pets and children are welcome at new Marrickville small bar We Three,run by a mother-and-daughter duo serving excellent snacks.

  • Lenny Ann Low
The Al Shami mixed plate is designed to share between two.
14.5/20

Sure,this is a terrific place to wrap grilled meat in bread,but there’s much more to explore

Syrian restaurant Al Shami’s big menu goes beyond the usual grab bag of the Middle East’s greatest hits.

  • Callan Boys
Scrambled eggs with black lime za’atar crisp,sourdough and cultured butter.

Leisurely late breakfasts and shaken tahini lattes star at this cruisy beach cafe

Excellent scrambled eggs,a za’atar-flecked brekky plate and exemplary service are just the ticket at Noon in Manly.

  • Lenny Ann Low