At Geelong’s South American shared-style restaurant Alma,chef Jesse Hughes has gone for an edgy look. The walls are lined with paste-ups of girls’ faces overlaid with pink paint by Sydney artist Jessica Cochran,while the menu sees Hughes’ classical training meeting flavours of the south.

There are mushroom,olive and currant empanadas,plus snacks like arepa (maize flatbread) stuffed with spicy ndjua sausage,ricotta and honey,or snapper ceviche served with smoked tomato aguachile,avocado and corn. On the big protein front,they’re grilling the likes of a whole Hopkins River sirloin and wagyu rump cap.

A comprehensive wine list is dotted with plenty of South American varietals from torrontes and bonarda to malbec and there are also international craft beers. Almost by accident most of the menu is gluten-free,and there’s also an entire vegan menu. A contrasting bright,light-filled upstairs function space will seat about 100.