Inside a 129-year-old South Yarra terrace,find requisite dips,calamari,saganaki and spanakopita,plus cheffier versions of owner Nik Pouloupatis (ex-Cutler and Co,Attica and Grossi Florentino)’s mum’s recipes.

The zucchini fritters known as kolokithokeftedes include potato and panko crumbs – crunchy on the outside,soft and gooey on the inside. Youvetsi,a slow-cooked dish of tomato and kritharaki (orzo),might come with fall-apart lamb shoulder one week and meltingly tender osso buco the next.

The drinks list draws from Greece,with xinomavro (a nebbiolo-like red wine) and agiorgitiko (a red from the Peloponnese region) plus ouzo mojitos and sours made with mastiha,a piney liqueur made from resin – perfect for sipping on the two-tiered terrace in summer.