Size rarely matters at Merenda. Prefer that wild-ferment fiano by the half-pour? No sweat. Table of three morphing into five? Party on. This easy-going energy permeates everything in the room,from the staff to the records they flip.

Posters plastered along the entry immortalise parties and banquets past,many of them collabs with chefs,winemakers – heck,even other wine bars. Chalkboards advertise the day’s drinks and dishes:the former starring interesting small-batch producers,the latter headlined by towering blocks of potato focaccia,all squish and fluff.

Clams get chummy with guanciale,slips of oyster mushroom and a considerable amount of black pepper. Crab and house-made bottarga make for a briny treasure hunt among rustically cut tagliatelle,and pale-green shavings of puntarelle meet the fruity-savoury bite of preserved lemon dressing. It may be on the small side,but Merenda sure is mighty.

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