Southern Italian dishes dominate at Bar Taralli.
1/2Southern Italian dishes dominate at Bar Taralli.Arianna Leggiero
Bombette (rounds of pork wrapped in pancetta and stuffed with cheese).
2/2Bombette (rounds of pork wrapped in pancetta and stuffed with cheese).Arianna Leggiero

Italian$$

Change is afoot in North Melbourne,and chef Salvatore Giorgio is part of that. For his debut restaurant,Bar Taralli,he’s written a menu that’s all about Italy’s south,where his family comes from.

While some familiar dishes dot the menu,regional specialties reign. As in Calabria,house-made ’nduja arrives at the table in a candle-lit terracotta pot so it stays warm,ready to be mopped up with crusty bread.

Scialatielli,a short pasta with a noodle-like shape from the Amalfi Coast,is served with the best seafood that day. And Pugliese bombette are “little bombs” of pork scotch stuffed with caciocavallo cheese,wrapped in pancetta and cooked over charcoal – a little like a mini porchetta.

Tomas TelegrammaTomas Telegramma is a food,drinks and culture writer.

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