Castlemaine Woollen Mill once teemed with workers making blankets for army horses. Today,the sprawling site hums again,only now with artisans making smallgoods,cheese,mosaics and furniture.

In Shed 10 you’ll find Boomtown,a combined winemaking space,cellar door and restaurant,where graffiti etched into the bar during its former life as a science lab bench reminds diners that “skhool sux 4 eva”.

But you know what doesn’t suck? Gnocchi sardi,a sturdy ridged pasta that’s paired in autumn with pine mushrooms and pecorino,and in winter with braised greens and walnuts. Thick slabs of focaccia,ready for mopping-up duties. And slow-cooked lamb,flesh melting and skin crisp,frolicking with grassy salsa verde.

Cheery staff suggest pairings with wines mostly made on-site,and plate up wedges of flan patissier,a fancy description for an easy-to-love burnished custard tart.

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Central Victoria

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