Trailblazing restaurateur Rinaldo Di Stasio first branched out on his own on Fitzroy Street. More than 30 years on,his temple to Italian good times still stands,having weathered St Kilda’s changing fortunes,countless trend cycles and a global pandemic.

Cafe Di Stasio remains unerring in its crisp service,meticulous lighting and belief in beauty. On the plate,that belief looks like a stained-glass arrangement of beef carpaccio,parmesan and rocket. Lasagne Pasqualina,a signature,boasts an extraordinary number of layers. Main courses – perhaps pork cotoletta or a piece of fish – are boldly unadorned.

Cocktails are presented with reverence,whether it’s aperitivo or nightcap. Snacks and dessert are where the kitchen has its fun,and you should too. Even if it’s scaled back service to two nights,Cafe Di Stasio (and its adjoining Bar Di Stasio) is an essential St Kilda experience.