Classic cheese with mortadella pizza at Capitano. Joe ArmaoAs with many good trattorias,Capitano’s chaotic charm is the reason it has such a chokehold on Melbourne’s dining public.
Waiters ferrying more carb-piled plates than they have hands dance around a queue of confident walk-ins,wearing out the hinges on a seemingly revolving door.
It’s loud and loose,but the frenzy fades with your first mouthful of that good-as- ever vodka pasta:bitey tortiglioni tumbled through a luscious,blushing sugo that demands to be mopped up. That’s where the crust of your Detroit-style deep-dish pizza comes in,studded with caramelised cheesy stalagmites and topped with winter greens,creamy fonduta and near-glowing hot sauce.
Add faultless cocktails – such as the Australiano,made with all-Aussie amaro and salted grapefruit soda – and you can see why,after just five years of operation,Capitano already feels like part of the furniture.