Chaozhou Malaya Bistro Cafe,Balwyn North - The Age Good Food Guide 2024 review
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Chaozhou Malaya Bistro Cafe

One of South-East Asia’s more intriguing cuisines outperforms its obscure location.

Malaysian-Chinese$

Balwyn North isn’t synonymous with diasporic Chinese food,but the braises and broths that typify Chaozhou cuisine are found in full at this diminutive diner,a BYO beacon at the end of a dim arcade.

Crack through an omelette’s bronzed exterior to find a flurry of rich oysters suspended in fluffy egg. A bowl of pork rib tea drinks like soup,rich with slow-braised bones,cut with herbs and Chinese celery.

Char kwai teow is prepared at least three different ways. The chai poh version sings with sweet preserved radish,backing off the sauce pedal for a lighter look at a classic,whereas a ramekin of orh nee for dessert is an indulgent mind-bending combo of hot taro paste and pork fat that might just be the most powerful use of $3 in Melbourne.

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