Good Food hat15/20How we score
Italian$$$$
Brutalist stylings give this Italian stallion an immediate sense of occasion. Eccentric white-jacketed waitstaff flit among slabs of concrete and marble as artworks are beamed onto the towering walls. The Euro-heavy wine list is serious business,but there’s room for play in this palace.
Top buttons are coaxed undone as the first round of white negronis blankets the table,joined by a foil-wrapped sandwich that’s superb in its simplicity:crustless white bread and veal cotoletta you could cut with a spoon. Otherwise,all signs point to pasta.
Dainty handmade capellini are strewn with chunks of crab,and light lasagne Pasqualina is meat and bechamel-free. Golf ball-sized lemon-ricotta doughnuts make for a zesty finale,while the staff favourite of vanilla tart – with its decadent marriage of mascarpone and white chocolate – fits right into this unflinching room.
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Trailblazing cooking in a room of restrained glam.
Much-needed day-to-night eatery on a busy corner.
Artful strands that cut through a noisy noodle scene.
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