Some dumpling joints are defined by chaos and lively clatter. This Little Malop Street newbie – more a chic bar than a restaurant – is restrained,refined and intimate.

Amid curved concrete walls and low lighting,you feel as if you’re peering down a tunnel,only here,there’s delicate prawn har gao at the end.

Dumplings in serves of four or eight are made with impressive focus in a tiny kitchen at the end of the bar. Wagyu,fragrant with star anise,fills chiffon-thin steamed wrappers. Xiao long bao pop with a shot of sweet broth,while the pan-fried underbelly of pork pot stickers delivers satisfying crunch.