Texturally,there’s nothing like fufu. At no-fuss newcomer Edziban it’s made with cassava,pounded until its chemical bonds reassemble into a stretchy pillow of carby delight. It plays a critical role as a neutral vessel with which to navigate the restaurant’s complex stews and grilled proteins.

You’ll need it to eat your egusi soup,made here with lamb and defined by the bold bitterness of crushed white melon seeds. And for your beefi foroee,the rich tomato-based stew holding thumping hunks of slowly tenderised beef. You’ll want a plate of Nigeria’s tomato-stained national dish jollof rice with that too.

And you’d be remiss to pass up a plate of kelewele:ripe plantains deep-fried and tossed in cayenne pepper,ginger and salt,among other things. It’s strictly BYO on the drinks front,but the flavour and warmth are on the house.

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Melbourne’s Western Suburbs

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