14.5/20How we score
Contemporary$$$$
Four seats,two hotplates,a hibachi grill,a deep fryer and a chef. That’s it. That’s the whole restaurant.
Concealed behind a velvet curtain at the back of a whisky bar,the room is no larger than a walk-in fridge. It’s bordered by emerald tiles,divided by a Tasmanian beech myrtle bar and bathed in refracted light from a geometric fixture above.
Joel Alderdice balances the roles of host and chef. He fires up the grill to toast shavings of cured pork cheek served under latticed daikon,and pours small-batch local wine to go with it.
Sweet potato comes encased in brittle batter with grown-up chicken salt made from miso,kombu and shiitake. Koji caramel with shaved macadamia and pillowy cream is matched to a briny yuzushu,a fittingly unexpected pairing for a venue so delightfully niche.
Continue thisseries
Unpretentious,against all the odds.
Punchy share plates and choose-your-own-adventure wines.
Colour,curries and community spirit,with bonus riverside views.
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