Time stops when you enter this womb-like 16-seater. The imaginative,meticulous menu by owner-chef Mo Zhou takes guidance from nature. Kangaroo-leek tarts resemble birds’ nests,and crocodile char siu is folded in a peppery nasturtium leaf.

Scallops hide in a windswept sea of white asparagus foam,tangled with soft kohlrabi and wild garlic capers. Dried autumn leaves are displayed under a dessert of roasted sweet potato,lemon verbena syrup and pine-needle ice-cream,which gets an earthy,crunchy boost from burnt cacao and puffed wild rice.

Another sweet dish sees yuzu grated over curd,jam and sorbet:a love letter to the Japanese citrus. Sake and wine are thoughtfully coupled,and non-alcoholic pairings – such as a shiitake,kombu and peach number – reveal true artistry. And,exhale.

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Melbourne’s Northern Suburbs

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