If you’re lucky enough to visit Henry Sugar during truffle season,do not hesitate. The $14 supplement will earn you a shower of truffles so generous you’ll think you’re in a Michelin-starred Parisian fine diner,not a bistro in Carlton North.

Its spirit of generosity is the essence of this restaurant. Delicate house-made linguine comes with heapings of Moreton Bay bug. Mushroom pithiviers with walnut and wattleseed is one of the most ambitious (and delicious) vegetarian dishes around. And the Sunday $50 three-course lunches are unrivalled in terms of value.

There’s a feeling here of good people trying to offer something special to the community – in the service but also the food and the overall atmosphere. Add plentiful footpath seating and new boutique accommodation upstairs,and Henry Sugar is off the charts on the heartfelt affability front.