If Honcho were in Melbourne,it would earn plenty of plaudits,from best value feed-me menu to best margarita list. The latter ranges from classic to wildly creative,a theme across many dishes,too.

Birria spliff is a cheeky name for smoked beef and queso rolled into a pastry cigar and served with consomme dipping sauce. Fried calamari comes with hibiscus salt and jalapeno mayo. This is modern Mexican,a style of cooking that’s all the rage in its homeland and the States.

Fire licks many dishes,whether charcoal-roasted zucchini with smoked yoghurt or lamb barbacoa to wrap in warm flour tortillas. It’s a nice touch for a fire station turned restaurant. Whitewashed brick walls,flowing curtains and blond timber have modernised the space. A fitting plaudit for Honcho might be:best surprise of the High Country.

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Northern Victoria

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