How can a simple pizza crust silence a table? At this pint-sized,warmly lit charmer,the charred,bubbled rim rises like a doughy tidal wave,ready to crash into a sea of deli-bedazzled red sauce. Bases are wafer-thin,crusts are billowing,and the awe is palpable (you have a 48-hour ferment,in part,to thank).

Prepare for the thrill with a round of negronis and generous antipasti:an orb of fresh mozzarella,draped capocollo and prosciutto,dollops of fig and apricot jam.

Then,let the blazing behemoth of a pizza oven do its work,giving a quick scorching to pies topped with prawns,zucchini cream and mint oil,or sausage and char-grilled capsicum,or kipfler potato and syrupy sweet onion.