Intensity takes many forms at Ides. An inky-dark room big on sensual details like felt and leather,and a marathon menu of bone marrow,scallops and wagyu,with plenty of knockout flavour punches.

Celeriac puree is enriched by flame-coloured egg yolk and curls of truffle that bring boujee to the barnyard. Cured mackerel is covered in a kaleidoscope of salty things,from wrinkly capers to crumbled sobrasada. The full-throttle flavour of wagyu short-rib is intensified by a rocky crust of sesame and wild rice plus a battalion of sides (roasted bone marrow with fermented garlic puree leads the pack).

Gestures such as the etching of butter into a honeycomb pattern,with laser-sharp edges and a hue just as yellow,are a statement of high-end dining’s superpowers and a reminder why we go to restaurants such as these.

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Melbourne’s Northern Suburbs

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