New digs mean new moves for Ima Asa Yoru,which has morphed into a cafe-izakaya hybrid. It’s also deepened its low-waste,low-impact cooking mission. Fish collars left over from sashimi are charcoal-grilled for lunch,while prawn heads are Flour-dusted and fried for a crunchy pre-dinner snack.

A lunch set headlined by agedashi tofu is substantial,but add-on sides aren’t to be skipped (especially nanban chicken doused in tartare,its cornichon-heavy bite balancing the sweet,sticky fried chook).

Kick off dinner with a round of oysters topped with bonito-flavoured rice vinegar and roe. Then work through a tidy list of sake and Japanese-influenced cocktails between small plates such as beef tataki bedazzled by garlic chips. With big windows,light wood and polished concrete,you’re guaranteed to feel zen no matter the hour.

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Melbourne’s Northern Suburbs

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