One of Rutherglen’s oldest and smallest wineries might lack the architectural wow factor of some neighbours,but it makes up for it in charm. Arrive early for a wine tasting in the rustic bark-roofed bar,then pull up a tapestry-covered chair at an antique table for a relaxed lunch served by attentive staff.

French provincial dishes meet 21st-century principles of zero waste and local sourcing in chef Briony Bradford’s generous two-and three-course menus. Fork-tender goat raised six kilometres away shines on a plate busy with pumpkin,pear and olive. Purple and golden beetroot from the kitchen garden rests on zingy horseradish veloute.

In a clever update to an old favourite,a sweet-savoury lime and cinnamon eclair hides a subtle earthiness from roasted parsnip. In a rush? There’s a casual cellar door menu,or prebook a picnic hamper.

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Northern Victoria

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