Kaiseki isn’t simply Japan’s version of a degustation but a holistic experience,where every element creates a compelling narrative of region and season. Daylesford-raised chef Aaron Schembri and wife Risa Kadota,an Okayama-born hospitality powerhouse,nail that brief.

Custom ceramics,traditional charred walls of pine and hand-painted shodo scrolls set the scene. Winter might bring warming snapper broth given umami oomph by Dromana wakame,or the revivifying lift of pickled daikon to counter rich pork dumplings. Pristine kingfish sashimi served skating on ice nods to frosty,misty mornings. Later,melting wagyu is dramatically delivered in a smoke-billowing box.

It’s a well-told story,impeccably supported by unobtrusive service and a thrill-filled list of small combination matched by puddles of cheesy sauce and a chianti reduction. Tiramisu sneaks in a cocktail’s worth of booze,including the herbal liqueur Strega,marsala and Galliano. This is food you’ll still be thinking about weeks later.

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