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Critics'Pick

Malaysian$

Time your visit for when you have nothing planned later because a food coma is inevitable. The culprit might be char kwai teow.

The signature dish is a generous mix of smoky flat noodles stir-fried with chilli,Chinese sausage,nubs of pork lard and seafood – perhaps prawns,maybe blood cockles. Hokkien mee is the other prime suspect:a tangle of vermicelli and yellow egg noodles in spicy prawn broth that could compete with Penang’s finest.

Service is perfunctory – staff assume diners know the drill,so ordering is largely self-guided – but the spacious,light-filled interior is reminiscent of a roomy hawker stall and happily accommodates all:families,friends,retirees and students. Big afternoon ahead? Snacks such as flaky chicken curry puffs and peppery pork lobak are a low-commitment way to get your street food fix.

Also on Bourke Street in the CBD.