Walk down Manila’s cacophonous streets and you may be lucky enough to hear a rickety pushcart and its ringing bell,which signals the arrival of mamang sorbetero – the local ice-cream man – and his sorbetes,pejoratively called “dirty ice-cream” for its street-side preparation.

Despite the nickname,sorbetes is a beloved snack,with its silky scoops made from carabao or coconut milk and sweetened with native flavours such as cheese,ube,jackfruit and mango.

Kariton Sorbetes,the dessert shop inspired by nostalgia for traditional sorbetes,has earned a cult following for its creative Filipino flavours,from creamy ube halaya to Jollibee’s iconic peach mango pie.