There are hundreds of sambals found across Indonesia,an impossible number to capture on one menu. But Kenangan,wedged into a corner of Queen Victoria Market,has a strong line-up. Not all are as fiery as the sambal terasi that comes with soto ayam,a sunshine-yellow bowl of gentle chicken soup.

Green chilli-based sambal ijo has less bite,cooked until jammy,while smoky threads of shallot and chilli in sambal goreng bring a savoury edge. There’s also yielding duck leg coated in sticky bakar kecap sauce;barramundi that’s crisp and soft in all the right places;and sate lilit,the beautifully grilled minced chicken flecked with lemongrass and chilli.

Ordering by smartphone is encouraged,including for pisang bolen pastries filled with banana,chocolate and cheese,which make for a salty-sweet finish to accompany the staff’s friendly farewell.

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