The building blocks of khao man gai,a descendant of Hainanese chicken rice,may sound simple:chicken,rice,soup. But at this modest eatery,the street-food staple is a portal to Bangkok for homesick expats.
The traditional version is the best way to appreciate the delicate balance of tender skin-on poached chicken,fragrant rice,sweet-sour chilli sauce and salty broth,but off-piste pals include a rendition with peanut sauce,another headlined by fried chicken,a tofu version,and a skinless option named The Melburnian.
When ordering,take cues from the service and the space and play it straight. A tight line-up of snacks,soups and curries might tempt,but stay the path:the namesake is the way to go.
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