The hottest seats are at the wooden omakase bar,but ordering a la carte in the minimalist dining room is an adequate consolation. Either way you’ll experience classic dishes pushed somewhere new through refined Japanese technique.

Lifting the lid on a bowl of agedashi tofu reveals the oceanic aroma of powerful dashi broth. Wagyu tataki with fried leek-and-potato ribbons gets kick courtesy of yuzu kosho. Grilled eel is delicate and tender,lacquered in a sweet soy glaze and paired with smoked pickled daikon.

Desserts are playful. Matcha creme brulee materialises as a stick of toasted,caramel-coated shokupan ready to be dipped into moss-green custard. Sake fiends can dive into a selection of more than 20 bottles,including the vibrant,unpasteurised nama style.

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Melbourne’s Southern Suburbs

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