The focaccia is rightfully celebrated at this spirited trattoria. A generous slice encrusted with salt and rosemary is a necessary accompaniment to any dish. A knockout plate of Jerusalem artichokes roasted with malt and butter is paired with chestnut cream for the ultimate autumnal flavour bomb.

The pasta is not to be missed. A stately plate of thick bigoli strands come coated in bisque,ceremoniously cradling a whole Moreton Bay bug.

From outside,the restaurant’s stark white corner block gives little indication of the buzz happening within. But the beautiful dining room,overseen by warm and energetic waitstaff,draws chirpy crowds (including those from the apartments above). They’re here to perch at one of the sunlight-strewn window seats or at the luxe marble bar,which offers the best seats to peruse the notable list of amari. This is polished dining,but with neighbourhood soul.