What’s the secret to Maha’s 16-year run? Part of the enduring popularity of Shane Delia’s flagship rests on the slow-roasted lamb shoulder,an ugly-delicious thing gently spiced with flickers of cumin and fermented chilli. This signature dish is emblematic of the generosity that keeps luring solo diners and rowdy groups to the dimly lit city basement.

Tasting menus represent a whirlwind of Middle Eastern flavours,from the haute-meets-homeland smoked hummus to silken,garlic-dressed Lebanese dumplings with buttery pine mushrooms. Other dishes are gussied up with subtle European technique,such as coral trout in a lilting orange reduction.

Portions are Olympian and the road to Turkish delight filled doughnuts drenched in rosewater honey is long. Our advice:kick back and take your time with the help of sophisticated sippers (hello,Pomegranate Sour) and spice-friendly wines from around the globe.

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