To elevate a regional shopping strip to destination status is no mean feat,but Messmates has done just that. Sitting between a pharmacy and a bank,the restaurant glows like a beacon. Inside,neutral tones – tan linen curtains,camel coloured banquettes,beige porcelain tiles – are punctuated by big wooden tables and shelves holding progressive wines from nearby.

Restrained plates are calmly consigned from the terrazzo-topped kitchen-island pass. An acid-driven stack of Portarlington mussels on toast perches at the fatty-tart nexus. Lemon lifts the celeriac sauce for a cheesy pie packed with Swiss chard from the owners’ dad’s organic farm. And sticky-sour rhubarb brightens a nutmeg-dusted custard tart.

Exceptional service redefines country hospitality,from the bright greeting and anecdotes delivered while your glass is filled to the wooden wine boxes overturned to hold handbags.

Continue thisseries

Gippsland

Up next

Sardine Dining

Seaside gem to build a weekend around.

Sodafish

Where the catch of the day comes from the water you’re dining on.

Previous

Mahob at Moo’s

Family-run favourite returns with a cafe alter-ego.

See all stories