As you sit and eat in Navi’s basalt-toned dining room,the term that springs to mind is not merely “interesting” or “inventive”,though those adjectives accurately describe chef Julian Hills’ tasting menu of nine-ish courses. What you’re likely to think,over and over again,is “delicious”.

There’s an ethereal quality to this cooking,as if it were created in a magical realm where everything is balanced,fragrant and delightful. Hills makes miso from bunya nuts. He pairs rock lobster with celeriac and salted grapes,and Murray cod with pine mushrooms he foraged himself.

He’s also a warm presence in the open kitchen,taking as much care with each guest as he does with the ceramic plates he creates for them to eat from. In the six years Navi has been open,it’s morphed from a loveable gem into one of the country’s best restaurants.

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