There’s no shortage of excellent Vietnamese in Richmond. But when New Quarter’s black pepper and tamarind noodles hit the pass,gently coiled and crested with a butterflied tiger prawn,we’re reminded that there’s always room for more. Doubly so when the timber-tabled environment is this handsomely lit,and the cocktails flirt so elegantly with smoke and spice.

The signature snacky take on banh mi is a bite-size baguette piped with whipped pâté,topped by a raft of chicken skin. Mushroom buns dipped in ’shroom gravy with shiitake salt provide a triple whammy of earthy punch,while a whisky-ginger cake with che chuoi cream – a whipped,lime-green play on the tapioca pudding of the same name – makes for a vibrant send-off.

Plentiful staff can be hard to flag,but while the service could use tuning the prices are spot-on.