Norma

Norma’s calling card is its housemade semolina pasta. Take your pick from punchy,prawn-laden linguine;cheesy,al dente conchiglione shells cradling mushroom,peas and salty pops of guanciale;and those enormous tubes called paccheri,sauced with rich beef ragu.

Even more appealing is its laser-like focus on the good stuff. Street seats are primed for pear Bellinis and loading white anchovies onto just-torn bread. The glimmering emerald bar encourages post work parties for one.

Tick-a-box,order-at-the-bar menus mean it’s easy to summon (excellent) extras,such as lemon-bright borlotti bean dip,pickled vegetables with fat coins of salami,or miniature pork schnitzels with tonnato sauce.

There’s a tight list of local and Italian beers and wines,and the smarts extend right to the bittersweet finish:Campari-spiked blood orange juice poured over passionfruit sorbet.