It’s perhaps the most imposing entrance on the peninsula. And yet beneath the facade – a long,curved limestone wall with a huge door that swings open as you approach – there’s sincerity in spades. Visit during quince season and you’ll find them packed into a deliciously flaky pie along with apples that are also grown right there. Foraged nettle and thistle are wilted to create a peppery pillow for lamb noisette. With pops of lightly charred estate-grown corn,it’s a riot of green and gold. There’s glamour galore in expanses of terrazzo,dark timber and glass,plus striking views of vines and sea. The setting makes the $100 price tag for three courses feel like a steal (house-baked sourdough is thrown in too). You’ll be drinking estate wines but champagnes,digestifs and beers are from further afield. And the staff? As down-to-earth as they come.