14.5/20How we score
Italian$$$$
The menu is a mystery at this tiny trattoria,right up until the moment you’re about to eat. Some things,though,are certain. Trust that there will be five courses traversing antipasti,pasta and something sweet.
What you’ll drink starts out similarly vague. Some bottles are scrawled on a mirror,others suggested and poured by owner-chef Danny Natoli whose unhurried,generous energy sets the tone for what’s to come. Garden-fresh zucchini ribbons are coated in a crunchy,ultra-light batter. Mortadella pairs with soft mozzarella and caponata that sings of summer.
Dry-aged duck benefits from an anise-rich jus,while the truffle and cream sauce coating crowns of mushroom tortellini calls for more focaccia,placed – unprompted,almost illicitly – onto the table by a maitre d’ wearing a three-piece suit. Departing with a full belly is one final guarantee,helped along by piped-to-order lemon-pistachio cannoli.
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Party up the front,elegance in the back.
Where every table orders the same thing.
Real-deal contender for Melbourne’s best bun cha.
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