The menu – like the riverside room,the vibe and the wine list – is big. Seasoned grill-goers usually approach it like this:pick your steak from more than a dozen,sourced from five key producers,and work your way back.

The meat – butchered in-house and cooked with care over coals – is served with only a slice of lemon,so don’t be shy with the sides (and choose potato gratin over the chips). Unlike most steakhouses,the things that bookend the beef are excellent. Jamon powered XO sauce jazzes up scallops on the half shell,while cured flathead with leche de tigre and smoked bullhorn pepper oil could be the city’s best ceviche.

Showy bombe Alaska flamed tableside and a perfectly unadorned creme caramel are equally excellent. Service is variable but when it’s good,it’s very good indeed (especially when you spend big).

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