Sformato (Italian cheese souffle) with onion cream.
1/5Sformato (Italian cheese souffle) with onion cream.Darren Seiler
The interior of Stefano’s dining space.
2/5The interior of Stefano’s dining space.Darren Seiler
Rigatoni with ragu.
3/5Rigatoni with ragu.Darren Seiler
Murray cod with artichoke.
4/5Murray cod with artichoke.Darren Seiler
Handmade ravioli.
5/5Handmade ravioli.Supplied

Good Food hatGood Food hat16/20

Italian$$$

Heading down the stairs of the Grand Hotel into the grotto-like basement that houses Stefano’s is still one of Australia’s great bucket-list dining experiences.

The restaurant,which chef Stefano de Pieri has been running for more than 30 years,has never strayed from serving straightforward,beautifully sourced Italian food.

The $130 tasting menu follows a classic arc. Focaccia and salumi;a seasonal soup;sformato,the light-as-air yet utterly rich souffle of cheese and greens;handmade pasta. There might be mussels in a surprising sauce of tomato,’nduja,lemongrass and ginger.

Advertisement

For secondi,perhaps Murray cod or a lovely piece of local beef simply cooked to bring out the best in the ingredients. Service is as warm as the space,and wine conversations – be they with the staff or de Pieri himself – are always a pleasure.

Continue thisseries

Western Victoria
Up next
Totti’s Lorne showcases local catch,such as crumbed King George whiting.

Totti’s Lorne

Oceanfront juggernaut keeps on pumping.

Priceless views at Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel.

Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel

Glorious food,glorious wine list,glorious surroundings.

Previous
Le Comptoir is a taste of France in Aireys Inlet.

Le Comptoir

Gallic gem on the Surf Coast.

See all stories

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement