There’s a whiff of woodsmoke and old money at this ever-evolving peninsula winery. Its fine-dining restaurant bestows daytime diners with spectacular vineyard views;at night,the vibe is moodier,each well-spaced table an intimate bubble of light.
All around,staff adroitly refold napkins,suggest apt wine matches from a wondrous list,and present dishes – often with a flourish of sauce or broth poured tableside. A semi-open kitchen fuelled by fire creates compositions of many elements.
The opening volley might be a fragile pastry case cradling smoked trout cream glinting with salmon roe;plump marron heaped crumpets cast among pebbles;and cockerel liver parfait wearing a madeira jelly cloak.
The rest of the cockerel,cooked several ways,arrives a few courses later on a plate daubed with pumpkin puree,tarragon emulsion and shiitake gel – like an abstract expressionist’s Sunday roast.