In a city where wine bars almost outnumber streetlights,those in the know make for the warm glow of The Moon. Some grab a bottle of something thoughtful for the road. Others settle into one of the neighbourhood’s most appealing concrete fit-outs,poring over the bulletproof menu.

The kitchen crew,led by class-act executive chef Charley Snadden-Wilson (also of Clover),has no business blowing minds with chickpeas,yet they insist on doing just that:delivering them in a singular world of flavour,girt by lardons.

A seafood escabeche is smooth,smoky genius,just the right canvas for foraged samphire,while snapper sings in a bracing eel broth. Strictly snacking? Order the potato doughnut with bottarga and brace for happy,salty tears.