Neighbouring Daylesford snares its fair share of food fanatics. But one town over,this homely former shop on a backstreet embodies the road less travelled with its four-course prix-fixe mystery menu.

Your detour is quickly rewarded with snacks including a brik pastry cigar of warmly spiced lamb bisteeya and smoked eggplant;an elfin-sized fish sando with salsa verde;and crisps layered with smoked trout dip. You could add a glass of bright,fizzy cremant from the short but meaningful international list and declare yourself sated. But there’s more unfussed pleasure to come.

The earthy tang of beetroot and radicchio is cut by labne and pickled figs. A subtle Japanese tangent is revealed in eye fillet anointed with teriyaki sauce,and in miso-laced soy creme caramel. Doesn’t it feel good to strike upon off-Broadway gold?

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Central Victoria

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