Good Food hat15/20How we score
Contemporary$$$$
Tulip is an increasingly rare breed:the ultra-personal owner-operated restaurant. Manager Dan Ford exudes the kind of warmth that comes from being invested.
Chef Mike Jaques and his team plate up dishes that are much more than they seem on paper. Mussels steamed in white wine and individually stuffed with an airy roux made from the steaming liquid and paprika are fussed over,but in a way that doesn’t detract from the seafood.
In a savoury play on the idea of fruit and muesli over yoghurt,silky artichoke custard is covered with a blanket of dusky walnuts and chewy Jerusalem artichoke. It’s a salty,nutty inverse breakfast that’s hard to forget.
John dory is beautifully crisped,served in a pool of master stock with sea herbs. The space is modest,but the experience deserves huge hype.
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Colourful nook for tacos and margs.
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