Good Food hat15.5/20How we score
Japanese$$$$
Arnaud Laidebeur’s affinity with seafood makes Uminono stand out amid Melbourne’s booming omakase scene. Honouring the traditional horseshoe bar set-up,his bright off-Chapel restaurant dispenses 12 magnificent courses.
A cup of dashi boasts incredible depth,while dry-ageing coaxes the best from New Zealand king salmon nigiri. A light flaming brings out alfonsino’s exquisite flavour,and tuna tsukune with miso egg sauce hits all the comfort receptors. Melbourne’s most indulgent pitstop can be found here too.
A $70 chirashi bowl holds seven types of stunning sashimi:Hokkaido scallop,snapper and paradise prawn among them. Uminono is only open by day,a measure designed to support the staff’s work-life balance.
Toast to that from a list covering sake,French wine and drops delivered by Coravin that bring democratic pleasure to a luxury lunch.
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An embarrassment of riches inside a former bank.
Throwback to service of old in an art nouveau space.
Vibrant fare in a humming,low-lit room.
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