14.5/20How we score
Contemporary$$$$
It begins with a descent. From an obsidian holding room on the ground floor,an elevator plunges you towards a shadowy bunker of smooth bluestone and rough concrete – not unlike a villain’s secret lair. High-end cognac and Japanese whiskies are stocked in a towering,amber-coloured bar that brings new meaning to “top shelf”.
Dishes are no less sensational. Butterflied whole southern rock lobster is doused in syrupy chilli crisp,a sweet through line also seen in gochujang-glazed fried chicken and the dressing of a green mango salad.
Prawn toast is a worthy signature,bolstered by Chinese doughnuts that soak up chilli speckled amazu (the rice vinegar dressing). Chawanmushi is amplified by chicken skin and a touch of smoked eel.\
An oft-videoed dessert of hot citrus caramel poured over a chocolate shell reveals five-spice fudge,and gives Yugen’s dramatic entrance a run for its money.
Continue thisseries
Swish sushi counter for thrillseekers.
New player in Melbourne’s DIY grill scene.
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